Here’s what is certain: There are no firming or tightening products whose results can duplicate what you derive from in-office procedures such as dermal fillers, Botox, lasers, or cosmetic surgery.\u00a0Board<\/b>– Certified Denver plastic surgeon Manish Shah says, \u201cThere are anti- aging products or ingredients that do perform significantly better than others and can make a profound difference in the skin\u2019s appearance while others are simply \u201cfalse hope in a jar.\u201d<\/b><\/p>\n
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Why don\u2019t most products work the way they claim?<\/b>\u00a0Almost without exception, when you buy a product claiming to tighten skin, its effects, if any, are due to ingredients such as film-forming agents. Just like the name states, film-forming agents form a film on the skin, and that can make the skin “feel” tighter. The effect is temporary and you won’t see noticeable lifting of sagging skin, but the sensation is often enough to convince women that the product is working. Dr. Shah stresses that, \u201cSkin “feeling” tighter is not the same as making a real change for the better in the tone or laxity of your skin. Using what really works will get you closer to the results you want.\u201d<\/p>\n
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THE HEROES<\/b><\/p>\n
Dr. Shah says, \u201cSunscreen<\/b>\u00a0SPF 30 or above is the best antiaging cream you can use.\u00a0 It prevents skin cancer as well as UVA rays that cause loss of collagen and wrinkles in the skin.\u00a0 Reapply every 2 hours, use a powder sun block and carry in your pocketbook for quick and easy sunscreen touchups.\u00a0 My favorite powder sunblock is Colorescience, and my favorite base sunscreens have titanium or zinc oxide in them as active ingredients.\u201d<\/p>\n
Retinoids<\/b>\u00a0work great to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and help boost collagen production,\u201d says Dr. Shah.\u201d\u00a0 He adds, \u201cOver the counter retinols are good, Neutrogena makes a good one, or prescriptions such as Retin- A.\u201d<\/p>\n
Glycolic acid<\/b>\u00a0also reduces fine lines and wrinkles and helps fade pigmentary damage from the sun.\u00a0 \u201cI often have patients alternate nights with retinoid and glycolic,\u201d says Dr. Shah.<\/p>\n
Vitamin C<\/b>\u00a0is a great antioxidant which reduces free radical damage and is great for anti-aging and helps brighten the skin.\u00a0 Dr. Shah often recommends it in the morning, underneath sunblock, or at night if patients are too sensitive to tolerate retinoids and glycolic acid.<\/p>\n
Ceramides<\/b>\u00a0are a type of lipid found in the membrane of cells. Dr. Shah states that, \u201cThey help hold skin cells together, forming a protective layer that plumps the skin and retains moisture. Ceramide levels decrease as we age which leads to loss of hydration, less skin turnover and dryer, more damaged skin. Replenishing the skin’s ceramide levels will help restore moisture and fortify the skin’s natural barrier, helping skin look and feel younger.\u201d So use a ceramide containing moisturizer for your whole body daily.<\/p>\n
Hydroquinone\u00a0works\u00a0<\/b>to even out sun spots, blotches, and mottled skin. A little hydroquinone goes a long way. “It’s the most effective ingredient for bleaching skin,” says Dr. Shah.\u00a0 Hydroquinone fades hyperpigmentation by blocking the enzyme that triggers melanin production in the skin.<\/p>\n
Green Tea Extract<\/b>\u00a0is loaded with nutrients called polyphenols, which have been shown to fight free radicals.\u00a0It is an amazing antioxidant.\u00a0Studies have found that ingredients in green tea can reduce sun damage and may protect against skin cancer when applied topically. Dr. Shah offers that, \u201cUsing green tea extract under sunscreen can provide an extra dose of protection. Polyphenols in creams and lotions may help slow signs of aging, reduce sagging skin and decrease wrinkles.\u201d<\/p>\n
THE ZEROES<\/b><\/p>\n
The majority of anti-aging creams are still based on\u00a0moisturizers such as mineral oil.\u00a0<\/b>\u00a0Wrinkles look worse when they are dry, so any kind of moisturizer helps, but it\u2019s only temporary and doesn’t address the root cause of the wrinkles such as collagen loss, free radical damage, sun damage and environmental factors.\u00a0 Don’t be fooled by the anti-aging labels.\u00a0 Unless there is an actual “active ingredient” such as retinol, the benefit is just moisture but nothing else.<\/p>\n
B Vitamins\u00a0<\/b>Many forms of vitamin B (like B12) can only be absorbed in the small intestine, so no matter how much is loaded into your moisturizer or serum, it’s not going to make a difference. “Vitamins like niacin can have an effect on the skin’s texture and color, but your skin can’t absorb them,” Dr. Shah explains. If you really want to tap into the power of vitamin B to improve your skin’s glow and appearance, stick to eating leafy greens like spinach, asparagus, beans, and peas.<\/p>\n
Caffeine.<\/b>\u00a0\u00a0Much like a Starbucks Latte for your brain, caffeine in skin creams can give a boost to your skin, too. Until it wears off. \u00a0“Caffeine can temporarily reduce puffiness, especially around your eyes,” explains Dr. Shah. \u00a0“But don’t expect permanent results.”<\/p>\n
Botanical extracts\u00a0<\/b>are ingredients extracted from plants (flowers, roots, stems, trees, etc.) for use in skin care for everything from healing blemishes to reducing fine wrinkles. They have been used for centuries and have anecdotal purposes in many cultures. The issue: Botanical extracts need to remain on your skin in order to work. Dr. Shah explains that, \u201cIn cleansers, there is simply not enough contact time on your skin for any true anti-aging benefit to take place. Another issue is that most botanical extracts are water soluble, which means that the moment you wet your skin and begin to wash your face, they\u2019re watered down and rendered useless.\u201d<\/p>\n
Collagen<\/b>\u00a0and\u00a0elastin<\/b>\u00a0in anti-wrinkle products. Collagen and elastin in skin-care products can serve as good water-binding agents, but they cannot fuse with your skin’s natural supply of these supportive elements. In most cases, the collagen molecule is too large to penetrate into the skin. But even when it is made small enough to be absorbed it cannot bind with the collagen existing in skin, and there isn’t any research indicating otherwise.<\/p>\n
About Dr. Manish Shah<\/b><\/p>\n